Saturday, April 26, 2014

Back to work!

After being sick for most of Semana Santa, I was very happy to get to go back to work on Wednesday.
I was still a bit congested, especially in my ears, so I felt bad for any students who had questions on Wednesday. My word of the day was "¿como?" (What?) Wednesday was great, though. I love Wednesdays because I get to work with 8th grade A in the morning, and then kindergarteners in the afternoon. So, in the morning at the central park school building, I worked with the 8th graders to teach them rooms of the house and items in each room. For example, the living room has a sofa, chairs, and a table. The bedroom has a bed, a nightstand, and a dresser. I would write each room and its items on the board, and say each word aloud. Students would repeat the words after me and take notes. Then, I wrote simple comprehension fill-in-the-blanks, such as "The toilet is in the ______________." and "The sofa is in the __________." After English class, the students went to the soccer field across the street from Casa Maya. There, they had P.E. class. P.E. classes here in El Salvador consist of jogging, maybe some other form of calisthenics, and playing soccer. I asked one of the students if they sometimes play other games or do other activities in P.E., and he said no, that they only play soccer. Fútbol, or soccer, is definitely the sport of the country. It's an activity that everyone knows and loves. It doesn't matter if kids are from middle-class or poor families: everyone knows soccer. I am definitely the odd one out for not knowing the game very well. I told one of the students, Melvin, that I'd love to learn soccer and he said he could try to teach me next time. I know only the most basic rules of the game: two teams, use your feet, kick the ball (dribble it) and then make goals by kicking it into the net opposite the field from where your team started playing. I have no idea what off-sides means or what constitutes penalties. I also lack the skill necessary to play the game. I believe one must kick with the inner side of the foot rather than the toe, but I'm not totally sure about that. Also, these kids have some crazy moves! They'll be running forward and then kick the ball behind them to pass it to a teammate, or they'll jump up and kick their feet almost straight upward to intercept the ball in mid-air. Many kids play without shoes, too, and I'm amazed at how tough their feet must be to run back and forth across a rocky, weedy field and kick a ball. While some of the kids play, others will sit on the sidelines with me and chat. Some students will chat with me in Spanish about where I'm from or to talk about music, and others will practice speaking English with me. On Wednesday, Manuel was curious to know what some of the songs he likes mean. I should mention that music in English is extremely popular here. Practically all the 7th-11th graders adore One Direction, Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez, Demi Lovato, Skrillex, Katy Perry, Eminem, Nicki Minaj, etc. Meanwhile, many of the adults I've talked to love the same music I love, like the Rolling Stones, Nirvana, the Beatles, Kiss, Roxette, and other classic rock artists. Anyway, on Wednesday, Manuel asked me to listen to some songs that he was playing on his phone. The first song he had me listen to was "I'm a Boss-Ass Bitch" by Nicki Minaj. . . . Yeah, I think the expression on my face was enough to let him know that the lyrics were not appropriate conversational words in English. He then played some other songs for me. Most of the songs were rap, but there were a couple melodic songs about heartbreak and such. I didn't give him word-for-word translations, but I would tell him what the songs were basically about and if certain songs had bad words and whatnot.
In the kindergarten class that day, the kids learned three new verbs in Nahuat and in English. Teacher Jaqueline taped three pictures on the whiteboard: a person eating, a person sleeping, and a person watching TV. She wrote the Nahuat words for "eat," "sleep," and "watch" on the left, and I wrote the English words on the right. The children would hear and repeat the Nahuat words several times, and then the same for the English words. (pictures below).
I also helped teacher Jaqueline cut out foam circles and hot-glue little bears together for Mother's Day gifts, although Mother's Day isn't until May 10.

Thursday was pretty great, too. I got to work with 9th graders in the morning, and they were learning about how to give directions in English. They had packets with simple maps and questions about the maps. I drew pictures on the board to demonstrate the meanings of "Across from," "On," "On the corner of," and "Next to," and the students worked mostly on their own as I helped individuals with questions. Thursday was also a P.E. day, except I decided to participate today. I need to shed a few pounds, anyway. I think all the delicious, heavy food is catching up to me! P.E. is from 10-11 in the morning, so it's pretty hot by that point. I was wearing a nice shirt and a jean skirt, and I soaked my clothes with sweat. Next week I'll definitely remember to wear appropriate attire. It felt so good to exercise again that I didn't care too much about how much I was sweating. I was just glad that I had brought a frozen bottle of water and a bandana with me! I was able to sponge off with ice-cold water.

In the afternoon, the kindergarteners learned how to count to three in Nahuat and in English. Later, teacher Jaqueline told the students a story about two little mice, with the moral of the story being "stranger danger."

Today was a great day, although it was off to a rough start. Even though I slept for at least 8 hours last night, I still was dragging myself out of bed this morning. I even fell asleep on the toilet after I got up. I was finally waking up by the time I got to school, though, and I had a great time with the 11th grade students today. This morning's lesson was about how to use comparative adjectives, for example, how to say "I am taller than you are," or "My father is older than my mother," "You look happier than you did yesterday," and "San Salvador is more dangerous than Caluco city." Don Jesús and I read all of the initial adjectives aloud ("hot," "big," "fat," etc) and then explained the rule for each group of adjectives (If it ends with a vowel between two consonants, double the final consonant. If it ends with y, change the y to an i and add er. If it has three or more syllables, add "more" before the word.). Students then had to write at least 12 sentences using comparative adjectives. While the students were working, Don Jesús left the room (as he OFTEN DOES once the kids start working). When students finished writing, they would bring their notebooks to me to correct their work, and I noticed that half of the class was doing okay, but the other half of the class was not writing complete sentences. They would write something like "My father happier than." After I explained this at least three times, I decided I'd better address the issue head-on. I went up to the whiteboard and wrote "I am taller than my mother." Under this, I wrote the translation, "Yo soy más alta que mi mamá." In Spanish, I called the students' attention and explained that when we use comparative adjectives in English, we have to talk about at least two things, just like in Spanish. I explained that "que" means "than" and so it doesn't make sense to leave the sentence hanging (I demonstrated in Spanish how awkward it sounded). I asked if the students understood, and they said yes. After that, everyone brought me complete sentences with correctly-conjugated comparative adjectives. I was pretty proud that I was able to explain a concept in Spanish to help the students with their English. I was also proud of the students for quickly correcting their errors and catching on so quickly! I think that says a lot for using the native language to support second language learning. Don Jesús seems to think that I should only speak English to the students, even though I know they won't understand everything I say. Even though they know some English, my accent is SO different from the thick Spanish accented-English of Don Jesús. Even the teacher has a hard time understanding my English, though he says my "accent is beautiful." So I use Spanish to help explain concepts because I think that comprehension is more important than just having students parrot words or just copy writing things out of a book. I digress. After recess, Don Jesús came back and introduced the next activity, which was to read a paragraph about transportation and answer some questions about it. First, I read the paragraph aloud, then I read phrases and the students repeated me, and then the students read the paragraph to themselves. While the students were reading, I asked Don Jesús if I could try something different with the students to answer the questions. Even though Don Jesús is always saying that "English is communication" and "students must hear and speak to learn English," basically all the students do is read and write and not speak English at all. I asked if I could go over each question with the students and have them read the questions to me and we'd answer the questions orally as a whole class before they wrote down their answers. He said I could try it, but he wasn't sure it was a good idea. He said it might be too hard because the students are really only good at reading and writing. I said that I understood that, and that's why I wanted them to have more practice speaking in English. When most of the students said they'd finished reading the paragraph, I wrote the first question on the board, read it slowly out loud, and then asked the students to read it with me. Everyone read the question in English. Then, I asked the class what the question meant in Spanish. One student started translating it, and then a couple of others helped him finish the question. So now, everyone in the class heard the question in English, and in Spanish, so they knew what it meant. Normally, a few students will do the work, using dictionaries to figure out what the textbook is asking, and then the rest of the class will just copy these students when they're done. If Don Jesús noticed this trend, he hasn't done anything about it, so I haven't said anything, either. I figure if students are just going to copy one another anyway, it might be better if I at least get them speaking aloud in English to do the work.
So, now I knew that everyone understood what the question was asking, I repeated it again in English, looking for the answer. Various students blurted out answers and I repeated each response and said "very good." I wrote the answer on the board in a complete sentence, read it slowly, and then asked the class to read it to me.
Then the students would write down the answers.
I know this isn't the best method for teaching English, but I think it was a lot better than what they were doing before. We repeated this process for six questions. Some of the answers took a little more discussion before I wrote the final answer on the board. It took a while, but I still think it was more productive than letting a few students struggle to do the work by themselves and then just let everyone else copy. This way, everyone was engaged in speaking, hearing, reading, and writing English. After class, I asked the students in Spanish if they liked this way of answering questions or if they would rather work alone. Everyone said they liked this way better! So, that was a plus. I felt pretty good about that. Class ended early, at 10, and so I had three hours to kill until the next shift at 1. I had no way of getting back to Conny's house, and so I walked to the only place I knew to go in Caluco: Casa Maya. I had nothing to do. I already read most of my books, so I went to the bleachers by the concrete soccer stadium and watched some P.E. classes. I was still really tired from that morning, and it was already super hot, so I started nodding off even while watching exciting soccer matches. The kids were screaming and everything. By 11, both of the P.E. classes had left, and the stadium was empty. So, I walked to the far end of the bleachers, far from the road and close to a field of grazing cows, and I set my backpack down and laid down on the concrete, using my backpack as a pillow. I fell asleep. Maybe 40-50 minutes later, I woke up to the sound of voices behind me. I didn't move, but I heard one of the girls say my name, so I figured it was probably one of my students. I closed my eyes again and I heard a little girl's voice saying, "Are you sleeping? We're taking care of you." I dozed for a few minutes more before I decided to get up, since the girls were still there and I thought maybe I should be sociable. I know sleeping in public is probably not the best idea, and sleeping on the dirty bleachers with the ants might not have been a great idea, either, but I was far too exhausted to care. At any rate, the girls kept me safe while I napped.

When I looked up, I saw that one of the girls was Sara from Jacqueline's kindergarten class. With her was her sister, Eva, and another little girl I hadn't met before. We started chatting about school and cows and other things. Eva said that her mom saw me at the school yesterday and had made a comment to the girls about how beautiful my eyes were. :) I smiled and told her thank you. The girls offered me some mangos, which I graciously accepted. I'd only eaten a granola bar for lunch, and so I ate two of the mangos right away. They were perfectly ripe, succulent, sweet, and meaty, and not too stringy like the mangos peludos. They were delicious. I knew I'd regret eating mangos later (My investigations have indicated that fresh mangos here are incredibly powerful laxatives), but they were absolutely ambrosial, so I didn't care. While I was eating, Eva asked me if I taught English, and I said yes. I asked her if she knew any English words and she said "no." I smiled and said, "I know Sara knows some words in English!" Sara shyly smiled and said "no," she didn't. I held up my half-eaten mango and pointed at the flesh. "What color is this?" I asked, smiling. "Yellow!" said Sara. "Very good! See?" I said. "You do know some English!"
When Sara and her friend ran off to play, Eva started telling me about how she knows a whole bunch of songs for her church. She then started singing and dancing to show me all these songs that she has memorized. Eva told me yesterday that there are other gringos like me who came to El Salvador as missionaries for their church. I think she said she goes to an evangelical church.
Anyway, here are a couple videos of Eva and Sara singing. Sorry about the sound quality; my camera is pretty poor. The songs are basically about how powerful God is and how I know Jesus is still alive because I feel it in my heart and such. It's pretty sweet and uplifting. :)

Song 1
Song 2 (turn up the volume)

I hung out with the girls for about an hour, and then I walked back to the school for the afternoon shift with Don Carlos. I only work with Don Carlos on Friday afternoons, and today was my first Friday working with him. I was pretty excited; I have wanted to work with him since day one.
I LOVE how Don Carlos works with his students. Additionally, he reserved the computer lab today so that he could project scanned images of the workbook onto a projector so that all of the students can see what they're doing. One thing that Don Carlos does that Don Jesús does not is that he'll tell me exactly what the students will be doing BEFORE each class, so that I know what to prepare for. Class began with introductions, but we changed it up a little bit. The students were reading a dialogue between Letty and Maria that went something like this: "1: Hello, my name's______. I'm your classmate."  2:"Hi! My name's ____." 1: "What city are you from?" 2:"I'm from _______, and you?" 1:"I'm from __________." 2:"Okay, I talk to you later. After class." 1:"It's a good idea!" Don Carlos and I modeled this dialogue for the students. We took turns with the roles. Then, he asked all the students to pair up and read the dialogue to each other. The students would come to the front of the class and take turns in each role of the dialogue. I was very impressed with how well these students spoke English! And they're only in 7th grade, which is the first year that a full English class is taught! All of the students' English was understandable, although some of them spoke with a very good accent! After everyone participated in the exercise, Don Carlos picked up his guitar and all the kids sang a song about the greetings in English. Each verse was something like "Hello! Good morning to all my friends....Hello! Good afternoon to all my friends....Good evening....Goodbye! Nice to see you and have a nice day!" The kids all really got into singing the song. I love that Don Carlos uses music to get the students interested in the subject. After that song, he asked me if I knew "Old McDonald Had a Farm," and so then we all sang that song, too. After we sang about pigs, cats, dogs, ducks, chickens, and lambs, Don Carlos was about to put away his guitar but the kids started begging to sing "Happy and you Know it," so we sang that song, too. Before we began, I did make one minor correction to the lyrics that Don Carlos had. The song was "If you're happy and you know it, beat your feet," and even though I know that "beat your feet" technically works, I told Don Carlos that "stomp your feet" makes more sense. I used gestures and slowly pronounced the word "stomp" several times so that everyone understood how to say it, and then we started singing the song. It's no wonder that Don Carlos' students speak English better than Don Jesús' students, because the kids in this class sing songs and act out skits to actually practice speaking the language, whereas Don Jesús will just give the kids textbook photocopies and then tell them to read and write. They almost never speak. That's something I'll have to bring to his attention next week, and I will try to figure out a way to incorporate music and games into Don Jesús' classes. I also wonder how Don Carlos can use the computer lab, but Don Jesús doesn't. Anyway, class went really well. The kids worked on another activity where they matched English salutations and phrases with the Spanish equivalent.
Don Carlos really gets INTO his teaching, too! His English is WAY better than Don Jesús's (I can actually understand Don Carlos, but Don Jesús has such a thick accent that it's just better if we speak in Spanish), and he'll say each word or phrase of the activity so the students can listen to how to pronounce the word. He and I both read through the word list and the directions for the activity so that the students could hear the differences in pronunciation. He'll also act out the words that he says in English, and it's pretty funny sometimes. The kids actually pay attention to him because he's engaging. Furthermore, when some students peeked in the room and asked to talk to Don Carlos, instead of just leaving the class mid-activity and leaving the kids on their own, he actually said, "Just a moment," and finished his instruction and made sure the kids understood what they were doing before he went to the door to talk to the other students. Don Jesús just leaves.

I love the methods that Don Carlos uses. Many of his methods of engagement are methods that I've been taught at CWU, and are methods that research has shown to be more effective (like using music, skits, and such to get students engaged in the material). It's not even that I can say "Oh, I like how he teaches because I agree with his methods because they're similar to how I was taught to teach," but the proof is in the pudding. These kids, these seventh graders, already speak English very well. Their pronunciation is great and they have a much larger vocabulary committed to memory than do the students of Don Jesús because the students of Don Carlos actually actively practice speaking the language. Part of my job here as an intern is not just to "teach" or "take over a class" FOR the teacher, but I'm also here to teach the teachers how to teach English. I have a few suggestions in mind. :)

All in all, it was a great week, and it just so happened to end on a high note. I love working in the school.
I'm looking forward to this weekend, too, because I will finally get to go visit some Mayan ruins! Hooray!






I was exhausted after PE on Thursday. This was taken even after I'd rinsed my face repeatedly with water from my ice-water bottle. 



I think I permanently stained that shirt. That was a hot day, and I ran three laps around a field for the PE class, and then we did jumping jacks and squats. Even my jean skirt was damp from sweat. 


So, this happened. I made a calendar and stuck it on my wall. The little airplane drawing means that that's the day I go home. 

Recess at Republica de China. The blue Pepsi Stand is called a Chalet (Shall-Et) and they sell soda, chips, candy, pizza, sandwiches, etc.

Friday's lesson: Comparative Adjectives. Students were having trouble forming complete sentences, so I provided examples on the board and re-explained the concept in Spanish. Everyone turned in complete sentences after that. I was pretty proud of myself for being able to use Spanish to teach English, and pretty proud of the kids for being patient with me and for picking up the concepts so quickly. They're a smart bunch. :) 

Recess at Republica de China (centro parque building)

P.E.

I took a nap on the bleachers. When I woke up, these young'uns were chilling out on the row above me. I don't know the name of the girl on the left, but the middle girl is Eva and Sara is on the right.

This kid was using a slab of concrete to break mango pits and eat the seeds. 

The Casa Maya P.E. teacher

A P.E. class

My bag and one of the computer tables

"The future interests me because that's where I'm going to spend the rest of my life." 

"To invest in knowledge always produces the best benefits." 

I have no idea if the video file uploaded properly, but this is Sara (one of the kinder students) and her sister Eva singing a song for me. 



After a long, hot week, I celebrated the end of my working Friday by splurging $0.25 on a cold bag of Pepsi. Bags, it turns out, are actually common liquid containers here! Even mayonnaise and mustard is sold in bags at the store. Not packets, but bags with little ties on them and everything. Water is sold in little plastic bags, too, although I heard that it's not the best quality water to buy, so I'll avoid those.
My row of bottles. I can't refill my water bottle when I'm in Caluco, and I have no way of getting back to Izalco on my 2-3 hour lunch break. So, I bought a small backpack last week so that I'd have enough room to bring LOTS of water to school with me. :) I usually drink one quart and three liters just in my 8 hours in Caluco. It's incredibly hot here, and I have to drink at least 1.5 gallons of water every day to stay hydrated. 



students' garden of little plants in bottles. The newest addition is cilantro.

 Left: Recess! Right: Nahuat, Spanish, English!

The official language of El Salvador is Castellano. Indigenous/local languages are supported, though, and that's why Nahuat is taught in schools!

Teacher's desk! The blue liquid is soap and the tulip cannister has toilet paper in it. :) 




My skittish little roommate! I love geckos. They eat bugs; therefore, they're my friends.

Edit: So I'm posting my Friday's post on Saturday because my laptop was having some issues last night. Also, this post took me more than three hours to write. :P Sorry for cramming my whole week into one post, but I really didn't feel like writing when I was under the weather. Now, I'm back!

Monday, April 21, 2014

Today's a brighter day!

Illness update:

Yesterday, as I'm sure you noticed, I was feeling pretty miserable.
Today, I woke up feeling a little bit better. I can breathe through my nose most of the time, and my fever broke this afternoon. I started sweating buckets after my fever broke, but after I rinsed off in a cold shower, I felt pretty good. Conny and Erica cleaned my room today, too. They changed my bedding, swept and mopped the floor, and cleaned the bathroom.
Clean room & bedding! (and mosquito net. I might end up just taking it down and using it for a blanket)

My meds and 3 of my water bottles (I have 6, but three are in the freezer). 

This is how I'll be spending my afternoon: stuffed in a mosquito net with Harry Potter y la piedra filosofal and my iPod.


My cheeks are still a little flushed, but I'm at least not bright screaming red anymore with blotches on my cheeks! :)

My ice-bottle with the equivalents of day-quil and ny-quil

Tea and tissues

Conny also brought me some flu medication that's similar to Ny-quil and Day-quil. I e-mailed the ESNA team about how I've been feeling, and everyone is of the opinion that I should just rest, drink lots of liquids, and call someone immediately if I feel like I need to go to a doctor. I'm taking tomorrow off of work, but hopefully I'll be well enough to return on Wednesday. We shall see! I'm so grateful for the support of the ESNA and CWU staff, and that I live with Conny who's nice enough to take care of me. I feel a lot better knowing that I have options, since I was feeling a little bit trapped yesterday and I was not even sure how to go to a doctor here if I needed to. I'm glad that I finally let my team know how I was feeling. Hopefully tomorrow I'm even better! I can't wait to be done being sick so that I can actually start enjoying being here again. Having a fever in the tropics is one of the most miserable sensations ever: Oh, your body's hot from the inside? Let's just stick you in a sauna. That'll feel great, right? No.

Okay, so I'm on the mend! I'm starting to break a sweat again so I'm going to curl up back in front of the fan.


Sunday, April 20, 2014

I hate being sick.

My nose drips. My sinuses are stuffed. My throat feels raw. Air cuts like a hundred little daggers ripping down my esophagus into my lungs. My head pounds. My neck aches with the weight of my head. Every muscle in my body aches like I was pounded by a hundred meat tenderizers. My head burns with fever. My teeth and gums ache, throbbing when I breathe, pounding when I close my mouth. I can't sleep. I'm too hot.

Okay, so I might be a baby when I get sick, but I am miserable and this cold/flu/whatever it is started Thursday and each day following new and exciting symptoms show up.

Before my trip, I began taking immune boosters: Vitamin C, Rieshi mushroom supreme tablets, Airborne, etc. Since being here, I've conquered two illnesses with those meds and the addition of Sovereign Silver drops. Despite the meds, despite getting at least 8 hours of sleep every night, despite drinking plenty of water, I keep getting sick. There's something about El Salvador that just makes my body sick. Could it be the thick pollutant smog in the air? Could it be that maybe not all my foods are washed in purified water? Could it be that the water purifier here doesn't work as great as I thought? Are there simply new germs and bacteria hanging around that my body is getting acquainted with? Could it be a result of so many (so, so many) varieties of insect bites? So far, I've spent 12 days of my first month here sick and either in bed or in the bathroom. I'm quickly becoming an unhappy camper. I would very much like to go home, where I can breathe properly and without pollutants burning my lungs with every breath. My final six weeks look like an eternity to me right now. Yes, Conny's been very nice about my being sick and she fed me chicken soup and fruit yesterday and put an ozone air purifier in my room. Tonight, she made me lemon-honey tea for my swollen, sore throat. All the same, I am miserable here. It's too hot. My body really hates it here. My brain is trying to convince me to stick it out because I really need the credits and there's so much for me to learn and practice in the schools, but there's still that part of me that's feeling trapped and anxious and is wondering how much it would cost to switch my return ticket for a few weeks earlier. . .

This is sick and tired me talking. Maybe things won't be so bad when (if) I get better in a day or two. Or a week. I don't know what I'm sick with.

The Real Deal

Okay, some of you have asked me to post about "what it's really like there in El Salvador?" I'm sure many of you have heard that this is a very violent and dirty country. It's definitely true that this is NOT the country to visit if you're just a tourist. During my first week here, there were a LOT of emotional experiences I had that I wanted to write about but wasn't sure how to do it. There were many nights where I just had to break down and cry because of what I'd seen that day.
I think I'm finally ready to reveal what I've been experiencing.

El Salvador does have a very violent history, and even in modern day, there is a lot of gang violence. Travelers should definitely be cautious, but it isn't as though there are thieves and rapists and murderers lurking around every corner. The people of El Salvador are making many efforts to work toward a country of peace and respect.

Let me recap some events from my first week here, the week I spent with the CCLP group from CWU. On our first day in San Salvador, we were taken to visit a memorial wall that commemorated the assassination of hundreds of thousands of people during the 70's and 80's.









During the rest of the week, we learned a lot about the Civil war here in El Salvador. The war technically began in 1980, but there was a lot of violence leading up to it. For example, in 1932, here in the small town of Izalco, there was a peasant uprising that resulted in ethnocide, meaning that only indigenous people were targeted. The government militaries executed about 25,000 people of Mayan descent. Over the next 50 years, more government-lead assassinations occurred. For whatever reason, during the 70s and 80s, it was illegal to be a university student, and to be Catholic. People were arrested and beaten and/or killed for such acts as attending universities or even carrying a Bible in public. Francisco, the brother of my host mom Conny, was one such person who was arrested and beaten for attending a university in the 70s. Conny told us how she remembered getting the phone call from the police to come pick him up. He was so beaten that he couldn't talk. He's alive and well today, but not everyone was so lucky. 
In 1980, Monseñor Oscar Romero was assassinated while he was in the middle of giving a sermon. There are photographs of that day: nuns rushing to his side, blood splattered all over his face and robes. He died in the ambulance on the way to the hospital, as the bullet had ruptured his heart. Our group visited the church where he was killed. There were still blood stains on the floor where he was standing. 
We also visited the site at the Central American University where, in 1989, six Jesuit priests, the caretaker, and his wife were all assassinated by military soldiers. The Jesuit priests were assassinated because apparently anyone affiliated with a church was "against the government." They were woken up in the middle of the night and ordered to march outside. One of the priests had suspected that his life was in danger, so he was fully clothed and tried to hide in his closet, but he was found and shot, just like the others. This all took place in a rose garden. The gardener and his wife, who slept in a room a few doors down, were also shot that night because the soldiers had orders not to leave any witnesses or survivors. 
The place where Monseñor Romero was killed. He was standing on the right side. 

Monseñor Romero, shortly after being shot.

Drawings from photos of the torture victims during the Civil War


The garden where 5 of the priests were killed 

 The room where the caretaker & wife were killed
 Victims during the 80s
The clothes of the Jesuit priests, still covered with brown blood.


Map showing where the victims (blue bodies) and assassins (red dots) were. 

Learning about the incredible injustices of the tortures and assassinations during the 70's and 80's wasn't enough. Guess who financed El Salvador's civil war? That's right, the U.S. secretary of defense. Every time we visited a new site of civil war violence, I felt a knot of guilt grip my stomach. This is what happens when the U.S. blindly meddles in foreign affairs. Country-wide, hundreds of thousands of peasants, innocent victims, were massacred by the government with weapons and bombs that were courtesy of Uncle Sam. 
Alvaro, our guide, made it a point to tell us that the people of El Salvador don't hold all American citizens accountable for that fact. It was the government, not the people, who enabled such wide-spread violence. Alvaro said that it's true that many of the American people helped many El Salvadorans into the U.S. to escape the violence. Many indigenous people fled the country, since it was often the indigenous who were targeted. He also said that the fact that we're even here to learn about the history of El Salvador and to work to help people improve their lives gives the people here hope for peace. 

This recent history is, unfortunately, not the end of the violent story of El Salvador. Even today, there are many gangs all around the country. In fact, Conny's nephew, Moises, works for an ice cream company. His job? He pays off the gangs so that people can safely push little ice cream carts in gang-territory neighborhoods. On our 5th day here, we met a woman in Las Trincheras who was too poor to even have food every day. She had to beg from her neighbors. She was mourning the loss of her son, and I say loss literally because he had been missing for several weeks. She didn't know if he was dead or alive, and she was crying, saying that she just wanted his body to bury. Our group had a police escort who talked to her, and I found out later that her son had been a gang member and had been kidnapped from work by a rival gang. He was almost certainly dead. There's definitely a reason that Conny won't let me out of the house without an escort. 

Intentional violence isn't even the only cause of death here. Poverty also is a huge factor. I heard that many people, mostly elderly, die just from exposure and heat this time of year. 

There are also a lot of car accidents. There is a distinct lack of consideration by drivers here. Pedestrians do not have the right of way. In just a month of being here, I've seen two people hit by cars. 
On our second night here, I was sitting in the front of our bus as we were driving back to the hostel. Suddenly, I see at the stopsign up ahead that a car had hit a motorcyclist. Our police escort flashed on the lights and stopped to help. All I saw next to the fallen motorcycle was a crumpled body and a pair of legs soaked in red, fresh blood. So much blood... It was dripping off of her legs onto the road. I must have been the only one on the bus to see this accident, too, because as I'm shocked at the scene in front of us, I'm hearing kids laughing and talking about weddings and flowers and such behind me. Even when life is draining out of the woman in the road, life is going on behind me, and life is good. I felt such a strange schism at that moment. I didn't know what to feel. I felt angry and annoyed at the people laughing behind me, and sad and sick for this woman. Our bus pulled ahead into a parking lot and I saw the lights of the ambulance as it came to collect the woman. Back at the hostel, I asked the police officers about the woman. She was still alive when she was taken to the hospital. I asked if they thought she'd be okay, and they said maybe; I guess her legs were pretty messed up. That night, I had trouble concentrating on anything else at the hostel. I kept seeing that scene over and over in my head. Had no one else really seen that? Did they really have no idea that a life was almost lost that night? A few days later, I did ask some other people in the group about it. No one else had seen it, and only a couple of people even knew that there was an accident. I was surprised at how upset I was about this woman that I didn't even know. Death is a tricky subject; it's somehow so taboo in the United States, but many other countries, especially Latin American countries, think of death differently. Everyone's going to die eventually. That's no secret. Yes, it's sad when someone we know dies, but life goes on. Celebrate the life that was lived, and celebrate the soul that's gone on. 

A week ago, on my way to church, I saw another body in the road. Alex, my driver, calmly said, "Oh, look, there's a dead guy in the road. Do you see him?" and pointed across the highway. Sure enough, there was a dead man in the road. It looked like he'd been hit by the big truck that was pulled over. There were two cops at the scene and a handful of bystanders milling about at the trinket vendors at the side of the road. I wasn't as affected this time, although the apparent calmness of all the onlookers was different to me. Almost a month had passed between the two car accidents I saw. This time, I wasn't upset. I didn't cry that night. In fact, I forgot about it by the time we got to San Salvador. I did remember the scene when I got home that night, though, and said a prayer for that man's family. 




Pascua

Well, today, as many of you know, is Easter Sunday. Now, this day is celebrated in the U.S. in a variety of different ways. Those who are Christian/Catholic celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ today. Others celebrate Easter with eggs and chocolate bunnies and sweets, a tradition that dates back to the worship of the fertility goddess Estre of ancient Rome. It seems to me that, more and more, U.S. holidays are more about the commercialism than the celebration with families. Each year, we see Christmas ads and sales starting earlier and earlier, and now, it seems, that Easter, too, has reached that stage of commercialism. Instead of going to church or finding an egg or two in the yard, youngsters now get GIANT baskets full of video games, shoes, clothes, and too many toys to count, in addition to hunting for hundreds of candy-filled eggs. It's just like Christmas in the spring.

I have to say, I've been enjoying U.S. holidays less and less over the past few years, and a big part of my change in spirit has to do with the increasing commercialism. Why does everything have to be an excuse to say "gimme more?" Why do we have to go broke every holiday to spoil our children with THINGS?

Here in El Salvador, holidays are a huge deal, but they're relatively simple. I may not be catholic, but I have really enjoyed the week of Semana Santa. Kids are thrilled not to gorge themselves on chocolate rabbits, but to have nine whole days off of school to play with friends and family. The focus is on fellowship, food, music, and remembering Christ. Even those who aren't catholic go to the processions and enjoy the music and the street vendors and the time to spend with family. It's a time of love, of fun. Yes, there are vendors outside of the church, but do parents buy every toy for their kids? No. In fact, when I was there the other day, one of the few kids whose parents did agree to buy them a toy insisted "Only ONE toy!" The child kept begging for two, and so after a while with no agreement being met, the child and parent left with no toy at all.
Last night, I was kept up by hours and hours of fireworks! What a joy that must have been to the ones who were setting them off. What a celebration! I have really enjoyed getting to spend time with Conny's family, who came to visit for the weekend of Pascua (Easter). We lingered over dinner for hours as the uncles told riddle after riddle and we all had a great time trying to figure out each one. No one brought presents, no one had baskets or eggs, and yet we all had a wonderful time.

When I go back to the States, this is the spirit I want to bring back with me. I want to spend more time enjoying time WITH family and being in their presence than demanding or buying THINGS as presents. After all, things wither away, but memories and love last forever.

Saturday, April 19, 2014

Gunshots!?

This evening, I was chatting with my boyfriend on Skype when I was startled by gunshots! They were so close to the house, too; I was scared! Then, I realized that they were shooting two at a time 16 times, and that there was a weird "fzzzzzzzzzzzzzsht" sound after each shot. Hmmm.... maybe they're just fireworks! Even from the outdoor garden part of the house, it's difficult to see the sky due to the trees, and I saw nothing. Then, just now at around 10:30, I was again startled by the same sound but it sounded like it was coming from next door. The church bells were ringing and everything. Fingers in my ears, I braved stepping out into the garden and trying to peek over the walls. Sure enough, I saw some lights in the sky. Whew! Fireworks! Not guns! I'm sure glad I brought ear plugs, because this is becoming an hourly event! I wonder if this is part of Semana Santa. I'll have to ask Conny about that tomorrow.

What do I do when I have a cold and can't sleep?

 Why, I read about Spanish phonetics and phonology, of course! Then, because of some linguistic differences I've noticed during my month of listening to Spanish and Spanish-accented English, I start researching comparisons and contrasts between Spanish and English phonemes so that I can write a paper on the subject for my Spanish advisor. I find linguistics a fascinating area of study! I wish I had my notes from my linguistics class with me. I thought that the English pronunciation of "r" is a velar phoneme, while the Spanish /r/ is alveolar. I was wrong. The English "r" is an alveolar approximant /ɹ/. I've noticed that a lot of Spanish-speakers have trouble pronounching the /ɹ/ in the back of the throat as opposed to the /r/ that's produced by touching the tongue to the palate or dentals (the sound of "r"s in Spanish). I was looking up differences in pronunciations between Spanish and English because, since I started teaching here, I noticed that some of the most difficult words for native Spanish speakers to pronounce in English are words like "their," "here," "her," "ear," "hair," etc. This is because in Spanish, the "r" sound is produced with the tip of the tongue touching the top of the dental plate or the back of the top teeth, while in English, the "r" sound is a very strong, straight sound produced by arching the tongue in the back of the mouth, but without the tongue touching any part of the palate. I think it's important to study linguistics if one is going to teach languages because it helps the teacher to understand why students might be having such difficulties learning and speaking the new languages. I mean, I know many native English speakers who are trying to learn Spanish, but have extreme difficulty pronouncing the trilled "r" (phoneme: /rr/) because that's a phoneme that doesn't exist in English. 

Additionally, there are a lot of words in the English language that end in glottal stops- that is, that the closing consonants aren't clearly articulated. For example, when we say "cat," we don't say "caT," but it comes out sounding like a soft "d" at the end, like "catd." It's difficult to describe without using linguistic symbols are actually saying the word out loud. Anyway, this concept manifested itself the other day when Lacey was trying to help Moises articulate the difference between "thing" and "think." She was emphasizing the closing consonants very strongly, and so Moises started saying "thing-ah" and "thin-kah." It was a little difficult to try to explain that the ending consonants aren't QUITE so strongly articulated. "Think" is closed with a soft /k/ sound, a sound that releases air through the mouth, while "thing" is closed with a velar sound /ŋ/ which is sound that causes air to release through the nose. The difference is barely audible, but Moises wanted to know how to say the words. 

Words like "their" are double-whammies for English language learners whose first language is Spanish, because there are no Spanish words that have a "th" combination in them. Thus, not only is the hard "r" difficult to pronounce, but so, too, is that tricky little "th!" As Victor Borge puts it, "how does one know how far to thtick out the tongue?" 

In my first month here, I've learned a lot. Not only have I learned a lot more about Spanish, but I've also learned a lot more about English, and just how dang tricky it can be to pronounce! I think it's imperative for foreign language or ELL teachers to study at least the basics of linguistics because knowledge of how the language sounds and is produced will help teachers to be a little more sympathetic to the struggles of their students. Learning linguistics may also help teachers to be able to better explain and demonstrate language pronunciation. 



My light reading for my sick days. :)